November 20, 2019

Day 19 Tatopani – Ghorepani

Tatopani lies beside the Kali Gandaki river. Ghorepani lies atop a hill. And when I say hill, I mean just over two Ben Nevis’ stacked on top of each other. Between them, as we would soon discover is a staircase – actual steps all the way up....

November 4, 2019

Day 17 - Kalopani - Tatopani

We wake up at the foot of a beautifully clear Dalaugiri, thankfully we remain unmolested by the cabbage zombies that Susan had feared.  I exit the room and walk the short distance along the balcony to the shared sink to clean my teeth. And t...

August 15, 2019

Day 15 - Muktinath - Jomsom

Somethings up with the lads and there is an atmosphere, a large amount of them not looking at each other and a general air of grumpiness. I’m not sure whether they’ve had a disagreement or they’re annoyed with us. We’re all tired and none of...

August 14, 2019

Day 14: The Thorung La Pass

For the past few months I have been worrying about the seemingly random nature of altitude sickness and how my body would react and how it would affect the trip. I’ve also researched the severity of the trek across the pass, reports ranging f...

June 30, 2019

Day 11: Tilicho Base Camp – Sri Karka – Thorung Pedi High Camp

It’s 9.30am and I’m sat in the bright teahouse in Sri Karka we passed two days ago. I’ve just been offered lunch, which just three hours after a huge bowl of porridge is a stretch too far. So I sit and wait...

June 6, 2019

Day 9 - Manang – Kangsar – Sri Kharkar – Tilicho

I was sad to leave Manang and it’s peanut butter on toast. Glancing behind as we took the left hand path (that no one else was taking) I felt a twang of regret that maybe, possibly, I won’t have the pleasure of visiting t...

May 22, 2019

Day 8 – Manang ‘Rest’ Day

Peanut butter on toast! I have gone an entire week without peanut butter, unheard of since I was a kid. I need my daily hit and I am missing its comforting nutty goodness. In fact I spent quite some time searching the shelves of all the local s...

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